Lakes and Volcanoes – Argentina & Chile’s epic scenery

Every time I come to write this blog, I feel like I’m falling further behind! Mind you, the internet has been pretty bad throughout most of South America so far – but more to the point, we’ve just been so busy there’s been no time to worry about the blog! But I know how much I’ll appreciate it at the end, and the internet in La Paz is slightly better. We’ve now crossed the halfway point of our journey… so I’m going to try and catch up as quickly as I can.

P1010979

Stunning views of Bariloche’s Lake Gutierrez

For almost three weeks (encompassing the post below), we’ve been criss-crossing between Chile and Argentina – I now have more stamps in my passport than I can count! But it’s been incredible to see the differences between the two countries and cultures, and how all the miles we’ve done on the truck have brought us to some pretty incredible places.

Take Bariloche, Argentina. In the middle of the ‘Lake District’ of Argentina, this is where Obama paid a visit not too long ago! It’s a strange town, with a real Swiss/German influence – likely from the influx of immigrants post-WW2. There are log cabins and fondue restaurants, along with chocolate shops galore! Since we arrived on Easter Sunday, we found the chocolate shops packed to the brim. Yum.

IMG_9139

I also took the opportunity to do a bit of horseback riding in Bariloche. While originally we had planned to go to a real estancia, they were too full and we had to switch to a more scenic (but less authentic) ride out by Lake Gutierrez. I did a full day’s riding and we saw some truly spectacular scenery. I can see why the Argentinians chose to bring the POTUS out here!

IMG_9149

Also, the steak… the steak in Bariloche was the best I’ve had in Argentina. We loved the parrilla El Boliche de Alberto – where the focus is solely on the meat. We maybe ordered a token salad… but didn’t eat much of it!

IMG_9135

A more traditional Patagonia parrilla, with roast lamb!

From Bariloche, we crossed over to Pucon, Chile. This little town had an entirely different vibe – dominated, of course, by the giant volcano Villaricca in the near-distance. This was a town devoted to adventure, and we knew we were in for a big one from the moment we heard the warning sirens blaring throughout town – signalling the volcano was active.

P1020001

Stunning volcanic sunrise before the long trek ahead

Now, if you’ve been following my blog adventures, you’ll know that we did a really hard trek in southern Chile called the W-trek. But even that didn’t quite prepare us for the volcano hike! The volcano was four hours of strictly UP hill. We did get to cut an hour off our journey by taking a chairlift, but it still wasn’t enough to make the journey easy! About half-way up the volcano, we strapped on crampons and used ice-picks to climb the permanent glacier that coats the top (and, in the winter time, it gets turned into a ski resort!) This made walking even more difficult.

When we were about twenty minutes from the top, we stopped to take off the crampons and switch to our gas masks. Now, I’m not going to lie… I almost didn’t make those last twenty minutes. It was HARD going. But I pushed through… and was rewarded with one of the most amazing views. Seeing a volcano bubbling with red-hot molten lava, magma swirling and bursting in front of us, leaping easily 100 feet into the air – it was the definition of EPIC.

P1020042

It was also tough to be up there. The air stank of sulphur – thank goodness for those gas masks – and breathing was difficult enough at that high altitude. The wind howled around us, threatening to push us over the edge. But the volcano had only started being that active two days before our arrival, so we were incredibly lucky with our timing. I can’t imagine getting to the top and only being greeted with that sulphurous wind!

P1020050

The way down… I wish I could say it was easier than going up, but it definitely wasn’t! Much harder on the joints. Most of the time, you’re able to sledge down the glaciers, but there wasn’t enough soft snow for us to do that safely. We were able to sort of slide down the gravel, but it threw up so much dust that it became difficult to see.

P1020051

Gas mask chic… but we made it

Still, it was one of the most rewarding days of the trip so far, and I wouldn’t have changed the experience for the world – even the next two days of aching legs!

 

Follow:

30th birthday Shenanigans – Futaleufu and Santiago

All I wanted for my 30th birthday was to start the decade as I mean to go on. And I think I accomplished that! But planning for my big milestone was no easy feat… although we knew the location was going to be somewhere between Chile and Argentina, we had no idea exactly where – the beauty of an Oasis Overland itinerary is that it’s a bit flexible. When I asked Kim, our tour leader, where she thought we’d be on the 24 March, she said ‘oh – it’s a drive day and a bush camp’. Huh. Not exactly the thrilling birthday day I’d hoped for!IMG_9102

But that’s where I was wrong. We rocked up to the ‘bush camp’ on the 23rd – and it happened to be an actual campsite in Queulat National Park in Chile, on the shores of a stunning fjord. After a beautiful sunset, naturally, to celebrate my last night in my twenties, I stripped down and went skinny-dipping! The result? The definition of chilly in Chile. Brrr. Luckily, there was a roaring fire to warm us all up – and plenty of good Chilean red wine.

IMG_9114

I spent the first morning of my thirties in true adventurous style – no make-up, hair unbrushed, in the same clothes I’d been wearing for three days… but hiking up to a famous hanging glacier inside the national park. As hummingbirds flitted past and droplets from the distant waterfall coated my skin, I thought, this is what I want my thirties to be: pushing my boundaries, hiking more, seeing more of the world’s wonders.

IMG_9124

The long drive that followed the hike was made hilarious by a bespoke birthday playlist, lots of singalongs and a truck decorated in my honour. I really have to thank all the people on our truck, Dadingo, for making my day really special!! At Futaleufu, our destination, we signed up for my birthday present – white water rafting the notorious Grade 5 Futa river rapids — and after dinner, Lofty presented me with a bottle of champers (yay!) and the truck gave me a big chocolate birthday cake. Yum.

IMG_4490

The Futaleufu river is home to some of the biggest rapids in the world… just not at the time that we visited! Even though the water was low, we still had an awesome time. I’ve been white water rafting a few times now, but I never get over the rush. On a beautiful sunny day, sitting (and, on occasion, screaming) down a river is just the most fun. We were in very good hands with our guide, Julio, who was an Olympic kayaker for Peru! I have no idea if the Peruvians are good at kayaking, but he took us down the most ‘perilous’ lines on the river to get maximum rapid impact – but still, only one of us fell out of the boat (and not me!)

IMG_9178

But my birthday fun didn’t end there! I’m skipping a couple of destinations (to return to in the next blog post) to Santiago, where Lofty & I celebrated in proper style. Using Starwood points accumulated during all our wedding spending, we booked a night in the swanky W Hotel Santiago, with its gorgeous rooftop pool. After a lazy morning wandering around the parks and fish markets of Santiago, we sauntered over to the hotel. Nothing like spending an afternoon feeling like a big spender after all those nights camping!

I’d also heard that the sushi in Santiago was amazing, due to its proximity to the coast and strong Japanese influence (lots of Japanese fishermen cross the Pacific to fish the abundant coasts of Chile). We couldn’t get into the W Hotel restaurant but we did manage to get a reservation at Asian Temple Lounge inside the Intercontinental down the road. And it did not disappoint. We had grilled octopus carpaccio, tuna and salmon sashimi, seared tuna steaks and elaborate sushi rolls. It was absolutely to die for – and dirt cheap too! I’d definitely come back to Santiago. One day was not enough.

30, you’re going to be alllll right.

Follow:

Exploring Patagonia – Argentina & Chile

The W-trek (see previous post!) was our baptism of fire into Patagonia, and over the course of the two weeks we’ve really come to know this region well. We’ve criss-crossed the Chilean-Argentinian borders more times than I can count, with each destination offering something new and beautiful to explore.

IMG_9014

Take the Perito Moreno glacier, which we visited from El Calafate. This enormous valley glacier is renowned for giving visitors great spectacles of ‘calvings’ – where the ice crumbles from the front of the glacier. I’d seen a version of this already in Antarctica, but I was looking forward to seeing it from even closer up. We’d actually missed the biggest calving (where an entire ice bridge collapses and the glaciers starts receding again for a bit) by only a week – bad timing that seemed to haunt us all the way to Pucon.

Luckily, Perito Moreno didn’t disappoint. We started out with a boat trip, which enabled us to get really up close and personal with the ice. We saw a couple of small calvings from the boat, but what was most impressive was how blue the ice was. I’m not sure that we expected such a rich colour.

Off the boat, we walked some of the catwalks on land that offered several view points of the glacier. We stood and watched in anticipation, our eyes scanning the huge wall of ice. It’s not enough to wait until you hear the thunderous ice cracking – by then, it’s too late. But after a few minutes, there was a little crumble of ice that seemed to open up a waterfall – like the glacier had sprung a leak. We trained our cameras on the place: something was definitely afoot. The ice creaked and groaned. Then, finally, a piece the equivalent to a three storey-building broke off and plunged into the water, directly in front of us. Epic, epic, epic.

From El Calafate, we moved to El Chalten, home of Mount Fitzroy at the top of Los Glaciares National Park. This was where we could get even closer to the ice, but unfortunately for me, my knee was playing up after the W-trek and I didn’t want to aggravate it any further. Still, Lofty got to go ice-climbing on Argentina’s largest glacier – Viedma – abseiling down into crevasses and picking his way out. Me? I wasn’t jealous at all. Of course not.

P1010909

Lofty climbing a crevasse in Viedma glacier

P1010918

I mean, please don’t feel too bad for me. While in El Chalten, I did a small walk to a viewpoint of Mount Fitzroy, ate an enormous banana-and-chocolate covered waffle and spent two hours in an amazing spa having four different types of treatments. Not too shabby whatsoever!

Mt Fitzroy viewpoint

 

 

 

Follow:

Doing the W – Torres Del Paine, Patagonia, Chile

Let me preface this blog post by saying that I am not a hiker, and neither is the other intrepid #alwardsontour, Lofty. But still, there was something about tackling three days of the world-renowned W-trek really appealed to us both, even though it meant diving in at the deep end: carrying our tents, food and clothes on our backs for over 60km. Call us crazy but it ended up being a great experience, and a real accomplishment to boot.

After the flat, monotonous scenery of the Chilean/Argentinian Steppe, driving into Torres del Paine was something of a shock to the eyes and the system. We drove past stunning glacial lakes, milky blue in colour, and huge granite peaks that seemed to pierce the sky.

P1010612

We only had two-and-a-half days to do the W-trek, which most people do in four. While a few very hardcore members of our group managed to get around the entire thing, the group I was walking with made the executive decision to cut back on one arm of the ‘W’ – so I suppose technically we did a cursive ‘U’ shape! We missed the trek to Glacier Grey as we knew we were going to see some very impressive glaciers later on in El Calafate and El Chalten.

The first stop was to pick up all our gear in Puerto Natales. We decided to rent a two-man tent (possibly the smallest tent known to mankind), a stove (which we shared with another couple), a cooking set (small pot, forks, spoons and bowls) and waterproof trousers. We also carried our sleeping bags, thermarests and lots of food and snacks! As for clothes, we brought one set for hiking and one for sleeping (a tiny bit gross, but hey – we were glad not to carry any extra weight! Underwear being the exception, of course!) We would pick up water along the way from glacial streams and otherwise camp at designated stops along the way. Tuna and rice would provide the mainstay of our meals – not the most exciting, but definitely nutritious.

GOPR0956

The ferry dropped us off on the evening of our first day at 7pm. We set up camp for the night – and truly found out just how small our tent was – and treated ourselves to our only cooked meal of the hike at Refugio Paines Grande. Already the scenery blew us away – as did the wind. The wind howled all night, threatening to blow us away in our teeny tiny tent! Not the greatest sleep start to the hike, but somehow we managed to get up in the morning bright and early with big smiles on our faces, ready to start our big adventure!

P1010600

Hiking with heavy packs is hard. Especially when you don’t wear the packs correctly! I hiked the first hour with my shoulders burning – once I readjusted my pack so that the majority of the weight sat on my hips, the shoulder pain instantly disappeared. Magic. Thankfully it was only 2.5 hours to the next stop, Campo Italiano, where we could dump our main bags and just take lunch up to the top of the middle arm of the ‘W’ – the Frances Valley.

The Frances Valley was definitely the most beautiful hike of them all, and if anyone else out there is short on time in the W, I would suggest doing this over Glacier Grey. For us, it was the most interesting hike – taking us through thick forests, past hanging glaciers that occasionally carved – creating miniature avalanches that thundered through the valley, and all the way up to a stunning view point called Mirador Britannico. We ate salami and cheese in front of huge granite cliffs, under a bright blue sky.

P1010614

We then had to hike back, to the unwelcome sight of our big packs. Although we’d already been walking for a little over 6 hours, we still had 2 hours to go until we could rest. Those last two uphill hours were definitely the hardest! We’d done over 20 miles (according to my Withings watch) and, having not done that much exercise for a long time, I was drained and emotional and in pain by the end. Arriving at Refugio Los Cuernos was a revelation, and a glass of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc/Riesling mix later, I was one happy girl once again.

Waking up the next day was… interesting. I don’t think there was a leg muscle that wasn’t crying out in pain! And we had a 4.5 hour hike to start off our morning. Joy. Still, because we had done so much walking the day before, we had saved ourselves a lot of time, and the walk was a beautiful, (mostly) flat stroll next to a stunning blue glacier lake. We really lucked out with the weather.

Waking up the next day was… interesting. I don’t think there was a leg muscle that wasn’t crying out in pain! And we had a 4.5 hour hike with full packs to start off our morning. Joy. Still, because we had done so much walking the day before, we had saved ourselves a lot of time, and the walk was a beautiful, (mostly) flat stroll next to a long glacier lake.

GOPR0998

Our reward for finishing the first part of the hike was a picnic lunch by the Hotel Torres, a posh hotel that would be our final destination the next day. We had made really good time so there was even a chance to grab a power nap in the sunshine on the grass. All I can say is that it was so necessary before the next part of the hike, which was undoubtedly the hardest: a 2 hour straight uphill scramble, with packs, to the Refugio Chileano.

And we still were not done. From Refugio Chileano, we had 3km to Campo Torres, our campsite for the night. That may have been the longest 3km of my life! Carrying packs all the way, for 23km, after having hiked far more than that the day before, was almost too much. The scenery on this part of the hike was also a lot less interesting than the Frances Valley.

However, there was going to be a pay-off… we just had to get to Campo Torres. From there, we ate dinner and hit the hay early, ready for the MAIN EVENT the next morning: sunrise at the Mirador Las Torres.

P1010659

Scrambling up rocks in the dark, in the cold, is not the most fun, but this was the event we had all been waiting for. We huddled together on our thermarests, waiting for the sun to hit the Torres and turn them fiery red (p.s. if you’re doing this, I thoroughly recommend bringing a sleeping bag up too! It gets reallllllly cold up there!). At first, it looked like we had the weather on our side. We had bright stars and a cloudless sky, and gradually that sky lightened to reveal the Torres. But as soon as the sun came up over the horizon, our luck changed. Thick bands of cloud remained stubbornly fixed on said horizon, blocking the rays, and then a fog descended over the Torres themselves, so that when it came for us to take a group selfie they were almost totally obscured! Boo. Still, we couldn’t control the weather: we could only control the fact that we’d made it up there in time to have a chance to see it, and we were proud of ourselves for accomplishing that. Maybe next time!

P1010668

Thankfully the way back was downhill, downhill, downhill, all the way to a hot lunch and a cocktail. It was hard on the knees (one knee in particular is still suffering a bit!) but a 30-minute leg massage sorted my muscles right out.

We’d done it! 2.5 days, over 60km, boom.

G0130988

Follow:

Bushcamping, or, Just in case you were getting a little too jealous of our adventure…

(*More pictures to come when I have better internet!*)

We are now a week into our overlanding adventure and it’s been a baptism of fire! While we were lulled into a false sense of security by two nights in the beautiful coastal town Paraty (more on that later), the three nights and three long drive days that followed was our proper induction into overlanding life.

Our first bush camp stop, somewhere outside Sao Paolo

What is typical overlanding life?

  • Drive days that last between 8-10 hours
  • Pulling over on the side of the road for pee-breaks (and learning to overcome squatting fear for girls – watch out for spiders!)
  • Becoming way too well acquainted with the affectionately known ‘shit shovel’
  • Sharing close quarters with 25 people who have not showered for 3 days
  • 25 people who are also covered in DEET thanks to all manner of biting, flying insects (this one probably unique to this part of the world!)
  • Eating whatever the cook group manages to scrounge together for you (normally pretty delicious despite catering for multiple food preferences, gluggy spaghetti and lack of ingredients!)
  • Deciding whether to pitch your tent on a sand pit, ant hills, cow dung or stones
  • Doing all this in the sweltering heat and high humidity

Good times. And I’m not even being sarcastic! It is good times. It’s not for everybody (at some points, I wondered it if it was for me). Yet nothing bonds a group together quite like bushcamps, and we were well stocked with beers and plenty of good, hearty food to keep us going. Long drive days are broken up with intense games of mafia, naps, lots of reading and even more writing (that last one reserved for me and the diarists!). I’ve blitzed through The Lie Tree by Frances Hardinge (so fantastic), How They Met, and other stories by David Levithan (which I read on Valentine’s Day – perfect) and Code Name: Verity (very different to what I expected and much older, but had me tearing up at the end). The nights tend to be short – early to bed and early to rise. The bushcamps vary: the first night, we attempted to pull into a campsite but had to camp outside instead (the campsite was actually a nudist retreat – only three days into the trip, we weren’t quite ready for that much openness!); the second night, we camped near what smelled much like a sewage treatment plant (by far the least pleasant stop); and the third night, we suffered a disaster by being kicked out of our first site by locals – only to find paradise in the form of a campsite in a stunning, Jurassic Park-like landscape with ACTUAL showers and ACTUAL toiletseats. True-to-goodness bliss.

And that’s probably the best part about bushcamping on those long journeys: it makes the destinations so much sweeter.

Take Paraty, our first stop after Rio – and our slice of paradise before the bushcamping began. It’s an absolutely stunning old colonial town and world heritage site with cobblestone streets, cute churches and wall-to-wall cachaça stores (that’s the alcohol that fuels the decidedly lethal caipirinhas).

After exploring the town, we climbed aboard a boat for a little exploration of the little islands and beaches dotted along the coastline. Now this was truly amazing. The water was beautiful and teeming with fish. The sun shone brightly (so much so, many people got burned… including Lofty, who won the first ever truck ‘numpty’ award for his ‘interesting’ suntan marks). We had a yummy lunch and spent the day swimming and sunbathing and sipping cocktails. Not too shabby for a bunch of soon-to-be-shabby overlanders.

But the reason for all the drive days that followed? The Pantanal – the world’s largest swamp. Sounds pleasant, doesn’t it? Despite the reputation, it was magic. But more on that in the next blog post…

Follow: